Nikita Mhailsalkar – Serif AW 2017

Serif

AW 2017

Exploring the scope for luxe knitwear in a country that has a pronounced winter in several parts, the collection draws heavily from outerwear staples. Sweaters, cloaks, coats and trenches in custom-made flat knits and ribs create abstract and amorphous shapes. These are balanced by sharply tailored separates in premium suitings, rich silks and sheer organzas. The predominant palette of steel, slate and charcoal is contrasted by a sharp tangerine. A trompe l’oeil print adds texture to the range. A modern, urban derivation of the traditional baadla-taar embellishment technique highlights the pieces. This is high-pret with a dramatic flair.

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Saaksha & Kinni – Armourage AW2017

Armourage 

FW 2017

Look Book: Saaksha and Kinni AW 17

This season, the starting point of our story comes from the idea of equipping a woman with everything she needs on her journey to self-discovery. This is the woman who finds herself going back to the life and times of the likes of Tomoe Gozen – the 12th century warrior woman who slashed her way to samurai stardom – and other historical badasses who knew exactly how to match grace with grit, delicacy with deadly, and tenderness with temerity.

This is the woman who is aware of her strength and treats her clothing as armour –
psychological or otherwise – that makes sure her private stash of courage, individuality, and
self-assuredness never runs dry.

Like with all of Saaksha & Kinni’s designs, Armourage works hard to bring out the dualities that exist in each of us. There is a feminine delicacy in the signature badla work but when it takes on a geometric grid-like pattern, its masculine energies come into play. A detailed look into the battle-ready embroideries reveals intricate zardozi and dulled metal sheets that carry time-proof resilience. As you run your hands over the antique stones embedded in the designs, you feel that roughness, that toughness leap at you.

The Armourage woman is clearly ready to rumble in tough silhouettes (hello, boyfriend jacket, trench coats, and vests) but equally unafraid to pair these with billowy, flowy pieces that mimic her autonomous state of mind. She loves the burst of warmth and spirit that florals come with, but here, they take on a dramatically ethereal, noir spirit. The strong shoulders and no-nonsense stripes put a subversive spin on power dressing by happily mingling with the rampant micro-pleating that pumps in that timeless feminine charm. The romance of chiffon and chanderi meets the ferocity of raw silk. In terms of the palette, passionate reds and enigmatic blacks are complemented by the calmness of blues and freshness of greens.

With Armourage, there is a stripping away of the connotation that something sexy requires much of the female body to be bared. The creations here prioritise the individual and her needs over the clichés of female role play. They understand the vitality of understated glamour but more importantly, they understand why you need to carry on the legacy of the original heroines who were absolutely unstoppable, with a little help from their armour.

Saaksha and Kinni AW 17

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Shruti Sancheti – Gleaming Fables AW2017

Gleaming Fables

FW 2017

Look Book: Gleaming Fables AW 2017

Inspired by the deep dark woods of Black Forest, Germany, the collection pays homage to the local Fables and other classical tales of mystical Landscape of Europe.

Snowy whites, Mushroom beige, Cherry Red, Pine green and Terra Brown forms the core rustic colour story of intense fall palette. The shy sun rays penetrating the thick vegetation of the forest magically illuminates every minute detail of these densely packed flora and fauna. Such surreal Moments of my recent nature trails inspired me to craft this ready to wear line of warm separates.

Crafted from exquisite textiles from Hilly tribes of India to quintessential wild, each look is sparkled with delicate hand embroideries celebrating the vintage patterns of botanical wonders lost in modernity.

The look is totally European with jacquard prints, pretty bloom and floral prints in tones of blush, dove grey, fresh red, mahogany, sand, beige, navy blue, etc. Luxurious fabrics like free flowing silk, textured silk, specially woven lurex chambray, etc  have been used for sheen. Modern detailing like eyelets, rivets, stitch lines, quilting have found their way with crafts like metallic hand embroidery in rose gold and gun metal and lots of hand block printing and screen printing has been used for surface ornamentation.

The silhouettes are diverse but have a contemporary and modern look, comprising of pant suits, dressing gown inspired suits, shirt dresses, crop tops, midi skirts and floral dresses, etc.

The whole collection is extremely feminine and romantic with a vintage feel but contemporary sporty details and au-courant elements have been added for a luxurious, refined and a graceful look.

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Doodlage

Look Book: DREAMS AND DYSTOPIA – CATALOGUE AW 17 DOODLAGE

About Doodlage:

Doodlage is a perfect sync of sustainability and innovativeness. The up-cycling fashion label has recently introduced eco-friendly fabrics, such as organic cotton, corn fabric, milk fabric and banana fabric to their collections. But their main source of fabric is the left over or quality, discarded textile from large manufacturers, which account for the “wastage” in export terms.

Doodlage, was born from a simple idea—to create unique, environment friendly products, suitable for a premium audience. The label loves experimenting with textures, embroideries, panels, washes, shapes and sizes to optimize the use of every little piece sourced.

Collection Note:

Dreams and Dystopia  (AW 17)

A world at war, dying environment. Chaos, it seems, is humanity’s final destination. What we need is a call to action. To find strength and beauty inside yourself. The strength to make change happen. A move towards building a circular economy and a conscious decision to do more for the environment we live. Doodlage’s Dreams and Dystopia line-up, brings a fresh optimism to our topsy-turvy lives with its edgy styling and whimsical details.

The collection brings together kilos of discarded industrial fabrics, patched and embroidered over to create a short collection for our first drop of Autumn Winter. Prominent colors in the collection include Marsala, Navy blue, sap green, Charcoal and lighter under tones of pastel blue, steel grey and beige. The techniques used in this collection include patchwork, paneling and hand done embroidery. The busy under layer done in prints/patchwork/embroidery/weaving represent the current situation of urban chaos, super imposed by delicate florals of hope.

All the left overs from the collection as always will be patched and shredded to create another short line of bags. Which will be launching soon!

As we hurtle towards a dystopian future, the choices we make today can set change in motion. Dream big and be that change!

 

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